PEARL BUYING GUIDE
Quality
 

While different pearl varieties have different price structures, they are judged by the same five basic  factors: luster, surface quality, shape, color, and size. Pearl strand and pair prices are also affected by how well the pearls match in all the quality factors. A strand should have consistent luster, color, surface quality, and shape. Color should also match perfectly if it is a single color strand but today you also have the option of muticolor stands, which are particularly fashionable in Tahitian cultured pearls. For size, strands should be all one size or graduated, in which case they should increase in size in smooth graceful steps.

Luster is most important value factor when it comes to beauty. Luster is the shine and glow of the pearl, the way it handles light. What makes it pearly? Basically it is reflecting light back and refracting it through its translucent top layers of nacre at the same time. This doubleness gives it a depth, a warm soft glow unlike any other material. High lustre pearls reflect objects near them clearly.

The smoother and more regular the topography of the pearl, the higher the surface quality. Pearls are natural, so when you look at them closely, most of them have tiny spots, divots, bumps, and wrinkles. The fewer the blemishes, the more valuable the pearl.

Shape is very important when it comes to price because people expect pearls to be round. Off round, baroque (non-symmetrically shaped), and circle (ridged) pearls are the pearl world's biggest bargains because most people don't even consider non-round pearls. The one exception is pear shaped or drop pearls, which are particularly nice for pendants and earrings. Matched pairs of drops are particularly prized. One interesting fact: baroque pearls, in particular Tahitian baroque pearls, are particularly lustrous because the extra curves on the surface help to increase reflection.

As with every gem, the bigger the pearl size, the bigger the price tag. Size is given in millimeters and refers to the diameter of the individual pearl. (Of course strands also have a length, which also affects price because of the number of pearls needed to create that particular necklace length.)

Now we start our tour of pearl varieties in Japan, with the classic white Akoya cultured pearl.